Geología en Murcia

A Geological Map of Spain

I can’t say that I know much about the geology of Spain but the rocky places - upon which its castles, cathedrals and surrounding walls are built - really interest me.

During my first visit to Spain - Almería in August - it was far too hot to explore anywhere and, except when driving towards Mojácar, where I recall reddened sediments, I can’t say that I noticed the geology - after all, I was on holiday and I much preferred to be cooling off beside the sea.

A Geological Map of Cataluña

In Cataluña, I came across a few regionally metamorphosed rocks whilst visiting Parc Guell and, in Girona, the nummulitic limestone used in the city walls is very distinctive. To remind me of my visit, I bought a geological map of Cataluña from a bookshop that my host at the Museum of Geology in Barcelona had recommended to me.

Around Madrid, I saw a lot of granite, as well as a wide variety of soft sedimentary rocks that are exposed in various road cuttings, and I was told on good authority that the evaporitic rocks that lie just below the surface cause great problems for the design of foundations and tunnels.

Flying into Alicante, not long before sunset, the geology could not be seen in any detail but the barren landscape revealed pale rocks and oxidised iron minerals.

I could only guess at what these were and didn’t know if they were similar in any way to those that I would see in Murcia. Seeing no rocks in the city of Murcia, I had to wait until I went to Archena. 

Archena

Driving north-west from Murcia along the alluvial plain of the River Segura, the highly dissected landscape, with its low hills, pale colours and a wide variety of sedimentary structures, suggested that we might be going through young rocks.

At high speed, it was only enough to get a general impression, but I was very pleased to have seen this landscape.

 

Arriving in Archena, the landscape changed quite dramatically. The River Segura and its tributaries cut through massive, hard rocks into softer sediments and there are some spectacular peaks. The generally pale cream colours identified these as a limestone and, with occasionally reddened rocks, their deposition in a near arid environment seemed very likely.

Walking up to Balneario de Archena, I passed an outcrop of marl that is highly weathered and contrasts strongly with an irregular harder mass of rock that lies above it, which reminds me of the Permian reefs that I know in South Yorkshire.

Murcia

On the bus to Cartagena, I hardly took my eyes off the landscape, trying to make sense of a wide variety of pale rocky exposures that can be seen in the road cuttings and valleys, as we wound across the mountains.

Speeding along the plain, the only hills that caught my eye were far off in the distance and soon disappeared from view.

Leaving the bus station in Cartagena, you are immediately confronted by the city wall, behind which steeply rises one of the five hills that form the core of the old city, and which itself is defended by another wall. Looking out from El Teatro Romano, you get such a good impression of this place – and why it was so coveted in the ancient history of the Mediterranean region.

I discovered a few small outcrops of regionally metamorphosed flaggy sandstone and I took good note of the various stones that have been used to construct and restore this fantastic monument. Igneous, metamorphic and sedimentary geology can be clearly demonstrated here, as well as the archaeology and industrial and economic history.

Cartagena

My Last Night in Murcia

Speaking English at the Bar Oliver

Having arrived back on the bus from Cartagena, it wasn't too long before I set off again to the Zig Zag commercial centre, where I spent my fourth night as a guest of the Language Workshop.

My role again, as a native English speaker, was to act as a co-ordinator of a small group of keen students of the English language, this time inside the Bar Oliver. Using the same prepared questions that I had on the Wednesday night at El Ahorcado Feliz, but this time with a different set of people, it proved to be another evening where my help was very much appreciated.

After a couple of hours, the first part of the evening came to a close and part of the large group reconvened at La Tasca de Mari, where several people were very keen to speak to me, before and after the formalities of the evening - when I was asked to give another short speech.

Salsa at the Bora Bora

Having had some much needed tapas, my first food since breakfast, the night finished at the Salsateca Bora Bora - a salsa dancing club at the Zig Zag. After a very long and eventful day, I hardly had the energy to think about anything else, except to enjoy a nice cold beer and contemplate the long journey back home to England the next day. 

However, even though I had never thought of taking a dancing lesson in my life, I was very tempted to stay longer and give it a go, especially when talking to a slim and very attractive potential dance partner - who I only had a chance to talk to at the very end of the night!

El Teatro Romano

Recycled Corinthian capitals

A general view of the Roman theatre

I have always been fascinated by the Romans, with their feats of construction and engineering and, having only had a brief glimpse of the Roman aqueduct in Segovia at night, during my previous visit to Spain, I wanted to make the most of this occasion.

Although my trip to Cartagena coincided with the only cloudy day during my week in Murcia, I was able to take a comprehensive set of photographs that show the theatre in a good light.

Reconstructed columns

Having never seen a structure like this before, I was struck by its dramatic scale and location and, although I have since learned that there has been some criticism of the restoration, as with the Roman theatre in Valencia, I was very impressed by what I saw.

Looking at old photographs, it is very obvious that the site has been enhanced, to attract tourists, but I think that there is a good balance between conservation and restoration. 

Together with the displays in the museum, you certainly get a good impression of what the theatre must have been like and I would certainly recommend visitors to the region of Murcia to see this fascinating place.

Miscellaneous stones

Wandering around, I was interested in the variety of stones that I observed and, possessing good experience of publicising the educational value of ancient monuments here in England, I came back home with some new ideas.

The good response to the e-mails that I have sent, to express my interests in the geology of Cartagena, makes me look forward to developing my ideas here - in the future.

A general view of the Roman theatre

El Museo del Teatro Romano

 El Museo del Teatro Romano

Modernism in a Catalan Style

The entrance to the museum is in Plaza de Héroes Cavite, opposite the tourist information office.

Built in 1908, and inspired by Catalan Modernism, this well restored and good looking building is a fitting introduction to the Roman theatre. Having paid my modest entrance fee and purchased a good quality guide book, written in English, I took a good look around.

All of the interpretation boards and labels for the exhibits are written in both English and Spanish and, although I am not that interested in ancient pottery, I took the time to read the information and get a better understanding of the history of the place.

Unsurprisingly, my attention was drawn to the wide variety of stones that can be seen everywhere - both in the modern architecture and in the ancient artefacts.

A fragment of an old Roman wall

Corinthian capitals, carved in both the local sandstone and the finest Carrara marble, have been set aside from the archaeological excavations, together with various statues and inscriptions that have been carved into other stones.

I particularly liked the polished marble that has been used for flooring throughout the museum. I had seen it many times before on the streets of Murcia, and had thought that it was very attractive, but here it adds a real touch of quality.

Artefacts in Room 1

Being keen to get to see the Roman Theatre itself, I rather hurried around the museum and you could easily spend more time here than I did. Although the exhibits aren't extensive, there are many interactive displays, virtual reconstructions and models that are very informative.

Passing along a subterranean passageway to reach the theatre, various sections of ancient walls provide an insight into the complex construction of the structure.

Rea Silvia in Room 2

 

Cartagena

Public Art and Sculpture in Cartagena

It takes less than an hour to cover the distance of 40km - as the crow flies - between Murcia and Cartagena, by bus. I just sat back and enjoyed the journey along the A30, which winds up and over a forested part of the Cordillera Betica. I hardly took my eyes off the landscape, trying to make some sense of a wide variety of rocky exposures that could be seen - in the road cuttings and steep sided river valleys - as we sped past them.

Once over the Cordillera Betica, the road heads straight towards Cartagena over a barren, relatively featureless plain, where only lemon trees seem to be in their element but, somewhere on the horizon, steep sided hills and mountains protrude from the landscape.

A Map of Cartagena

Leaving the bus station, I was confronted by the city wall, above which rose the Cerro de Despeñaperros, a steep fortified hill. 

Having left behind the hand drawn directions that would get me to the nearest tourist information office – I only remembered that I had to find the roundabout, turn left and head off down a long straight road towards the port.

At La Catedral Antigua de Santa María

Looking at the buildings and the road signs, for a clue to its whereabouts, I completely missed the roadside map that I have since discovered on Google Map. 

Wandering for an hour, along and around the long, narrow street that leads from both the bus and railway stations to the old city centre, I finally had to buy myself a map, in Spanish, from one of the kiosks - after stopping a few times to ask for directions and not understanding the response.

A detail at Cartagena Town Hall

The main reason for wanting to visit Cartagena was to see the Roman theatre and, whilst taking yet another unplanned detour around its exterior, in search of the entrance, I encountered some fantastic views of the city.

Finally, on the corner of the magnificent town hall, I found the tourist information office and, once I had gathered all the information that I needed, I went to look at the Roman theatre and its museum.

Ceramic murals

Exiting the Roman theatre by a gate that I had already found during my previous exploration of the hill, I went back down to Plaza de Ayuntamiento. 

The effects of 'el gripe', especially the lack of food, had begun to take its toll on my energy levels and I really didn't explore the city as much as I would have liked.

The area around the waterfront has obviously had money spent on it, as well as the part of the commercial centre which I saw in passing. Without really looking out for it, I saw plenty of interesting public art and sculpture, some fine architecture, the Muralla de Carlos III and I only scratched the surface of the history of this fantastic place.

A staircase on the Muralla de Carlos III

As an easily defended natural harbour and, having been the gateway to the region's mineral wealth for over 2000 years, the city has been fought over many times and fragments of ancient walls - of varying ages - are seen all over the city.

For its archaeological interest alone, a long weekend could easily be spent here, exploring the five small hills that form the core of the ancient city.

The Museum of Marine Archaeology

Although I would have appreciated the National Museum of Marine Archaeology much more, if I had had enough time to take advantage of the exceptional interpretation of the exhibits, as well as being able to take photographs, I was very impressed.

In particular, I liked the 'fossilised' box of coins that I saw and the way that amphorae were stored away in the ships.

The old bullring

With time moving on, I started to find my way back to the bus station, winding around some of the backstreets and discovering more excavations of walls along the way. 

Whilst walking around the campus of the Technical University of Cartagena I unexpectedly discovered the old dilapidated bullring, which itself is built on the ruins of the Roman amphitheatre, before coming across a large outcrop of rock - which obviously attracted my interest.

By now, most of the shops had closed for the afternoon siesta and, if I could have found a place to buy them, I would have really appreciated churros and chocolate. Instead I had to make do with a coffee, at the bus station, whilst reflecting on the day and anticipating my last night in Murcia, which lay ahead...